Feeling a tad triumphant from my snorkel experience,I decided later that week to try again at this surfing malarky that everyone around me seemed to be raving about. (In fact, the entire tiny town seemed to rely entirely on the economy generated from the surfers that come to visit.) This time, I decided, I should attempt a smaller scale, in the nursery area of waves, at a spot called 'the insides'. I sit at the shoulder of the wave, as they say in surf speak, instead of beelining for the centre of the wave with the big boys. Here I am taught to 'duck dive', where you fight instinct and headbutt the wave full on, letting it pass over you instead of approaching you from behind like a menancing mugger.

Then, I start to learn how to recognise 'the swell' , time 'the sets' , and look for 'the peel' left or right.
Im ready, Im eager, and Im determined to surf one sodding (even if it is a small infant one) wave before the day was out. Its approaching behind me, this time I feel ready, and Im paddling like a mad man trying to build speed.
All of a sudden; I feel the wave pick me up in the palm of its hand and gently, but with forceful speed guide me forward in the direction of the shore. I cant believe it, the wave peters out coming to a gentle stop and Ive survived. Ive ridden my first wave ever.. popped my surf cherry!
I do a happy dance in the water, and with a large grin on my face swim back to the boat, exhausted but happy, to enjoy a glorious sunset that I wish I could bottle and keep to share with you all.

Much love from this unexplored island paradise from 'soon to be empress of the waters' Tanya xx

Disclaimer: surfers pictured are not me but the standing up showing off surfers in the big boy waves. x