16/03/2009 - Surf standing




Not wanting my surf experience to be a one time event, combined with being blessed with clear sunny skies last weekend, I dragged my lazy hungover ass down to the beach for my first lesson on actual board with Surf n Turf as my guru.

Destination Big Wave Bay, board under arm, body in wetsuit (water is c-c-cold still), my first discovery is that dressed in a semi gimpsuit trying to balance in the sand/sea with giant alien longboard under arm is not a sexy look for moi. Im going to have to work on perfecting the 'check me out, im so damn cool' thang on the side.

The advantage of the waves at bwb was that they were a whole lot smaller and less daunting than those of my surf debut in Lombok. I was feeling quietly confident, depite my upgrade from boogie board to actual board. SnT was amazingly paitent and highly amused whilst I tried to master my balance on the board. I was just about managing to drag myself up onto my knees in a pitiful display of mastering the waves when a small 6year old cruised past me jumping to his feet like he had actually surfed out of his mothers womb.

Eventually, as the day was closing and my fingers were about to fall off, I managed to catch a wave, zip towards shore, assume position, heave my body (amazingly) to my feet and stand up!!! I lasted about 3seconds before nose diving into the sand. Having achieved my goal of the day (I swear I would have stayed there all night to get one stand up if Id had to) I gleefully skipped up the beach and headed home to pass out in exhaustion.

Miss you
Love & Hugs
Tx

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